123D Catch is an I-Phone and Android App that allows you to create 3D models by taking a bunch of pictures from various directions. These models can later be 3D printed. (Website)
Pardon me while I SQUEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!
I just download the Android App… going to try it tonight!!!
In case you wondered what news anchors do during commercial breaks.
The North American Cryptid Map
A comprehensive guide to the whereabouts of (possibly fake) real monsters.
Stinging Nettle Slug Caterpillars (Cup Moths, Limacodidae)
Cup Moth larvae are often highly ornamented and brightly colored. Two main types can be distinguished: larvae armed with rows of protuberances bearing stinging spines called nettle caterpillars, or non-spined forms where the surface of the larvae may by completely smooth, called gelatin caterpillars. The larvae of this family bear no prolegs on their abdominal segments. The larva attaches itself to the substrate by means of an adhesive ventral surface. The movement is like a slug hence their generic name.
A stinging slug caterpillar (like these ones) generally bears warning colouration and stinging hairs. These hairs can inject a venom from poison sacs carried at their base that are used as defensive weapons. Reactions can range from a mild itching to a very painful sting.
View my other images of Limacodid Caterpillars from China (Beijing and Yunnan) in my Flickr photostream, HERE.
You will notice I have given each individual a descriptive superhero-style name in the title of the images in captions and on Flickr. These are for my own reference mainly because practically none of these caterpillars are identified (maybe even ever formally) and this will allow me to group the growing number of images I have into their like-kinds including the various instars I have captured. The names will be included as tags on Flickr.
These are the varieties that are currently in my photostream: Dirty Mary (Darna sp.), Virgin Mary, Bloody Mary, Toothbrush, Hole-in-One, Green Devil (Setora sp.), Bullseye, Carrot Top, Torpedo (Susica sp.), Red Devil (Setora sp.), Blue Streak (Susica sp.), Chameleon, Yellow Devil (Setora sp.), Green Marauder, Almond-backed, Submarine, Sand and Sea, The Clown, The Ghost, Chequers, Triple Streak (Parasa sp.), Pin Cushion, Haemorrhoid, Bread Loaf, Jelly Bean (Chalcocelis and Belippa spp.), Tank (Prolimacodes, Demonarosa spp.), Ninja Turtle (Narosa sp.), Doormat (Thosea sp. and Cania sp.), Snickers (Mahanta sp.), Blue Stripe (Parasa sp.), Blueback (Cnidocampa (Monema) sp.), Jagged Little Pill (Darna sp.), Pink Lady, Canary, The Jester, Stool, Yellow Caboose, Zebra Crossing, Ox Tongue, Octopus, Outrigger, Inkblot, Blaze (Thosea sp.), Firecracker (Ceratonema sp.), Icicle, Optimus Prime, Claret, Cherry Ripple, Lavenderman (Parasa sp.), Cogwheel.
by Sinobug (itchydogimages) on Flickr.
Pu’er, Yunnan, China
See more Chinese caterpillars on my Flickr site HERE…..
the struggle is real
Tiniest foot tutorial. Can add toes or just have shoe. Is good. Have day.
Emphasis on beginner. This is my (Cata) first go at Pepakura and I definitely learned a lot. I learned a lot from the Replica Prop Forums (if you’re interested in prop and armor work, DEFINITELY visit this site, it’s a wonderful community) and Queadlunn gave me a lot of help along the way.
The prop used in this tutorial is a splicer mask from Bioshock, but the same method was used for Queadlunn’s Mass Effect breather helmet.
So what is Pepakura? Pepakura a type of papercraft that’s become a great way to create props and armor. Pepakura is specifically the program used to view and print out the 3D, but the process has taken on the name too.
The basic idea is simple; the design is printed out onto cardstock, cut out, assembled, and reinforced. From that idea, different methods have formed.
One big difference between this method and most other Pepakura tutorials is instead of using fiberglass resin, I used CA glue. CA glue is easier to use, not as toxic, and better for smaller scale projects like hand props, helmets, and maybe some weapons. This method is NOT recommended for anything like a full set of armor because of the amount of CA glue you would need. If we were working on armor or a larger piece, we would use fiberglass resin.
As another note, Pepakura is not for everyone. Cutting out all the pieces and assembling is very tedious and time consuming, it’s fairly messy, and you need to be able to work in a well-ventilated area with a respirator. Before committing to a large Pepakura build, try a small project first.
Materials list (with Amazon links)
Pepakura: This is the program you’ll be using to open Pepakura files. If you only want to open and print out files, get Pepakura Viewer. If you want to be able to scale the models, get Pepakura Designer. To save files in Pepakura Designer you’ll have to pay 40, but the download itself is free. If you plan on doing lots of cosplaying with Pepakura builds, buying the license is not a bad idea.
Pepakura file: Whatever item you want to build. Googling “_____ pepakura file” is a good first step. There’s also a list of resources further down on this post. Keep in mind there might not be a file for what you want to build.
Bondo: Easy to get at any home improvement, big box store, automotive, or on Amazon. The 14 ounce container is a good starting size.
Organic vapor respirator: The organic vapor part is very important if you’re working with Bondo. Easy to find at home improvement stores or on Amazon.
Nitrile gloves: Good for keeping your hands clean and safe when working with Bondo and CA glue. If you have latex gloves, you can use those too, but I don’t know if they’ll react with CA glue in any way.
Cardstock: Material of choice for pepakura! There’s also a method using EVA foam instead of cardstock, but I’ve never tried that before. The thicker the cardstock the better.
CA glue (Superglue): Some people use CA glue to glue the Pepakura pieces together (hot glue is also a common method). I used CA glue to attach the pieces together and as a strengthening layer. I used two bottles for the mask.
Utility knife or xacto knife: A sharp knife (and extra blades) will serve much better than scissors if there are a lot of small detailed cuts.
Mixing cups and sticks: For the bondo. Dixie cups are good for this.
Sandpaper: Lots and lots of sandpaper. You’ll want sandpaper in a variety of grits to get a smooth finish. I used 80 grit, 150 grit, 220 grit, and 400 grit.
Primer: Because it’s always good to prime before painting.
Paperclay: Used as a top layer to fill in divots and uneven sections. You can use Bondo instead.
Floor polish with Future: Used to strengthen paperclay and to create a smoother finish. If you’re only using Bondo, you won’t need this.
Aluminum modeling mesh: I found this much cheaper in a craft store, but this is an aluminum mesh used for clay or paper mache modeling. I used this to reinforce the back of the ears. You can cut the mesh with scissors, but be careful. The edges are very sharp.
Sponge brushes: Used to brush on floor polish since sponge brushes are cheap and disposable.
Onto the process! (Lots of pictures underneath the cut)